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[[Курта]]

Olkhon Island

Man inhabited Olkhon a long time ago. He crossed a wide windy strait – and not in vain. Ship timber, sandy beaches, black earth, mountainsides sweet smelling of thyme, red grades of cowberries, mushroom glades, plenty of game bird in forest and fish in the sea – this is the way was like and still remain.



In the Buryat its name means “windy, sunny”. That is an exact name. Always winds somehow direct them by/past the island thus there are much more sunny days here that on the Black sea shore. Olkhon is 72 km in length and 15 km in width. It’s contour reminds of the lake. It is also as unique, beautiful and mysterious as Baikal. In photos made from space ordinary an irrigation system can be seen, though everyday look catches nothing of this kind. And if only we make a special dive along different roads and look in fen fly at the hills we can make out that they ruled into firrows of artificial original. They are the very irrigation canals precision instruments managed to make out. The Kurykans are supposed to be ancient builders and cultivators they are ancestors of present Buryat and Yakut people. These structures are of their days.

But who did this ancient people defend themselves on the island from? Probably this water barrier was helpful for protection from horse-man of Jenghiz Khan. There are some chest mane plates of warlike Mongols in a school museum of Khuzhir that were found on the island.

By the by this museum was founded by a well-known regional ethnographer, a teacher of Geography, N.M. Revyakin. You should certainly visit it to get much interesting information about Olkhon story.

The island is considered to be a sacred place of the Northern shaman world. It has 143 archaeological monuments.

A ferrying may cause some discomforts for tourists and holiday-makers as it functions depending on weather. The ferrying can hold 10-12 cars but sometimes you have to wait in a line for almost a whole day. Absence of electricity also prevents the island from successful development. In Soviet days a diesel power station of the local fish factory provided the population with energy, but in new economic conditions delivery of diesel fuel turned out to be too expensive.

Projects on using alternative kinds of energy and removal of electrical transmission lines from the continental shore aren’t only on paper. Electricity had at last come on the island last summer.

Just on the left from the ferrying we can see a quaint rock that reminds of a horse head. This cape is named Kobyliya Golova (Horse Head). Some legends say that Jenghiz Khan troops made a stop on this cape and they left there a huge tup with a horse head. In 1901 barges with people were wrecked against their rocks and 176 men died.

Kobyliya Golova is also famous for insidious cracks in the ice where careless drivers often get into. Almost every year divers get sunk cars out of the lake.

Khorgoy Cape has no bad reputation. It is famous for elements of an ancient fortress that are still reserved.

Its wall, made of stone, is about 220 meters in length. There is a deep moat around “Arrows” lips with holes for burning tow that were found here show this edifice withstood shrine.

A natural wonder of the shore in Khuzhir is named in different ways Burkhan Cape, Shaman Rock, Shaman Stone. All of a certain everybody has seen this sacred rock, if though only in a photo. It is officially considered to be one of 9 sacred places of Asia and it became a visiting-card of Baikal long time ago. Snow-white, covered with red lichens it produces a deep impression. Women were forbidden to step to the shore nearby the rock. Men could not ride a horse and obligatorily dismounted and went on foot in order not to break divine stillness. It was strictly forbidden to draw nearer to the through cave. Only a shaman could enter it.

However not only shamans esteemed the sacred rock, Buddhist from distant Tibet came here to bow it.

At one time there was Buddha altar inside the cave. There is a mysterious drawing and a sing in Sanskrit at the foot of the rock.

On the left from the divine rock local inhabitants and visitors usually lie in the sun in a cosy bay not a bit embarrassed with the proximity of the sacred place.

And some years ago there used to be a filling station for ships in this beautiful bay. Cisterns of heavy oil and barrels, spots of diesel fuel could be seen on the surface of water. Apparently this was a way of a struggle against religious prejudices.

On the left from Burkhan Cape there are beaches of Saraysky bay. There is no more beautiful place on Maloye More. The beach stretches out for 3 kilometer and goes deep into the island about 1 kilometer. Sandy dunes seem to splash among a coniferous forest and Ledum bushes.

Wavy relief hides tens of tent camps so skillfully that it always looks solitary. This place is often compared with the best resorts of the Baltic shore, nothing that Olkhon has more sunny days.

Settlement Kharansy is situated north from the beaches. There is an airfield with a gravel runway but for the reason of economical difficulties no regular flights are carried out nowadays.

Then the shores rise unassailable walls of Nurgansky Cape rocks and then again bare two sandy beaches: in Ulan-Khushinsky Bay and Peschanka.

You can also see tent of holiday-makers there bur they are the much fewer quantity as rain makes the road quite impassable for cars.

As we can see there are not so many tent places on Olkhon and Baikal shore that goes to Bolshoye More is inaccessible and inhabited (except one place that leads to Uzury. There is a meteo-station there). Nevertheless the island can be observed completely to its northern point both from sea and land.

In Khuzhir you can always rent a motor-boat for any water excursions or a jeep that does not fear taiga ruts. Therefore the majority of tourists prefer to settle in Khuzhir where many hotels and motels have been opened. The population of the settlement is 1 500 people. At one time the majority of adults worked in a fish plant. Nowadays the plant can hardly functionate and its ex-workers have to find another means of living, thus they hope for tourist development.

Everybody in a settlement knows Nikita Bencharov and his tourist house. He used be a famous sportsman, tennis champion of Russia. He threw in his lot with Khuzhir. Tourists from all continents go to his place and having visited him once get again and again. If there are too many tourists he places everybody in local residents’ houses but does not free himself of responsibility. The lack of comfort Nikita compensates with sincere Siberian hospitality and concern on people. He will never let tourists go to a distant excursion without warm clothes. He will do his best to make an atmosphere of friendship and everybody will feel comfortable round the fire…

Let’s imagine we have already availed of Nikita’s services and now we continue our car excursion with an experienced guide in a reliable along the island.

Strictly speaking we have only a small distance to cover. We will overcome swampy sands of Peschanka, a steep wooded ascent with deep ruts, narrow turns and slipper rootstocks with inimitably beautiful motley grass. It is important not to miss a hardly perceptible turn to Sagan-Khushun Cape (if translated from Buryat it means “white”).

A marble massif of a dizzy height towers over the lake turning man into a small insect among tremendous grandeur water, rocks and the sky. Thoughts become purified from petty burdens and soar up. A soul feels drawn to God. If water is calm you can see swarms of ducks and Baikal seals nodding on stones deeply below. It is a stone’s throw to Khoboy, a huge stone fang, the northern guard of Olkhon land.

[[Курта]]

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